23 Hampton Road – one-time host to a factory and a synagogue

Regular contributor, Peter Williams, examines some of the fascinating history of 23 Hampton Road, on the Woodgrange estate, as part of his irregular series examining the backgrounds of some of Forest Gate’s more unusual houses.

23 Hampton Road, today

Architects working on the house prior to its sale in 2018, described it thus: “The unusually large rear wings were originally used as a surgical belt factory and later also used as a garment factory”. (here).

As we have previously reported, construction of the Woodgrange estate began in the 1870s. 23 Hampton Road is an odd shape compared with the rest of the street, as the old map below shows, indicating where the factory would have been located. 

23 Hampton - fifth house from the left 

Modern Ordnance Survey mapping shows the strange shape more clearly still:

23 Hampton - fifth house from left

Estate agent’s photographs accompanying the 2018 sale of the property show the scale of the extended wings.

Zoopla

The Woodgrange estate was tightly managed through leases by the original developers, the Corbett family, so it is surprising that this property looks so different.

The very orderly residential Hampton Road in the early 1900s. On the far right of the photos is the estate office, from which the Corbett family kept a close eye to ensure that high residential standards were maintained, which makes it strange that an industrial premises was permitted at number 23.

The first purchaser of the house, according to its lease was George Wheeler, "an anatomical belt maker". The 1881 census showed him to be the 49-year old head of household, employing “6 girls and one boy”, probably in the enlarged wings of the house.

A clue as to why the house had extended wings is to be found in the original 1880 lease for the property. Wheeler's address, as purchaser of number 23, was given as 18 Hampton Road, suggesting that as 23 was being constructed, he commissioned a bespoke design of the house, to accommodate his factory, from his then residence, almost opposite.

A decade later, Wheeler was still the head of household and now described as a widower. The only other occupants of the house were two domestic servants. Wheeler’s occupation was now described as a “Surgical instrument maker,” consistent with the description provided by the architects in 2018.

Evidence of the property accommodating the small factory can be found in a 1894 Kelly's Directory (below), describing it as "Leopold House":

Kelly's Directory 1894

"Leopold House", Hampton Road,  was the address given in an advert seeking  sewing machinists for the factory there:

London Daily Chronicle 20 Dec 1883

By the time of the 1901 census, the Dawes family were living in the property: Elijah Seale Dawes, his wife, Emily, two daughters, and a domestic servant. Elijah was born in Stoke Newington in 1858 and was an ironmonger. There is no evidence of a factory on the premises at this time. The Dawes family were still there a decade later. By 1921, Elijah was retired and living in Wanstead.

The house was inhabited by Philip Wolfers and his family in 1921. 62-year-old Philip was born in Spitalfields and was described as retired in the census returns. He had been a teacher and a Rabbi in South Wales, later serving the Walthamstow and Leyton Synagogue (see press extract). His 61-year-old wife, Louisa, was born in Amsterdam, and their 29-year-old son, Abraham, a self-employed shopkeeper, born in South Africa. Lionel was the youngest member of the family, having been born in South Wales, presumably when Philip was a Rabbi there, in 1900.

Wathamstow and Leyton Guardian 17 Mar 1915

Although described as retired, Philip appears to have used 23 Hampton as a small synagogue, probably located within the enlarged wings, during his time there, as indicated by an announcement of its closure as a synagogue in 1931.

The London Gazette 22 Sept 1931

Within a year of the house’s closure as a synagogue, it was occupied, at least in part, by wholesale poultry salesmen, who formed part of what was emerging as a House in Multiple Occupation, a familiar fate of many houses on the Woodgrange estate during the inter-war period.

By the time of the 1939 National Register, twelve people lived at number 23: four members of the Toomey family, retired naval pensioner George Raffin and his wife, George Kingsworth, Henry Bone and four members of the afore-mentioned Barnett family.

The head of the Barnett family was Nathan, a 63-year-old Russian Jew who emigrated to England in 1898. He had run-ins with the police and was imprisoned in 1943 for breaking World War 2 food and rationing restrictions. 

Chelmsford Chronicle 29 Jan 1943

Nathan's son, Louis, also had problems with the police. He was part of a conspiracy involving false medical evidence presented during World War 2, to avoid being called up for military service, for which he received a two-year prison sentence.

South Essex Mail 5 July 1940

Woodgrange estate – WW2 bomb damage

World War 2 reshaped the Woodgrange estate like no other period in its 150 year history. Records of bomb damage in London indicate that the area was hit on ten separate nights during the Blitz (1940-41) and on three occasions during the V1 and V2 bombing raids in 1944 (Fn 1).

The bombs transformed the estate's appearance, particularly at its western end, as a casual glance today will show.

For all of the bombing raids and the scale of the destruction, surprisingly few civilian deaths were recorded, according to West Ham's WW2 register.

 Bomb damage to Woodgrange estate during the Blitz

1940 

Sept 8 – Hampton; 9 – Osborne; 23 – Hampton; 28– Windsor; 

Oct 4  – Hampton; 

Dec 3 – Claremont

 

1941 

Jan 21 – Osborne; 

Mar 8/9 – 3 x Claremont; 19 – Hampton; 

Apr 17 – Woodgrange Methodist church and Claremont and Osborne.

 

Woodgrange estate bomb hits during V1 and V2 raids 

1944 

Jan 30 – Claremont; 

Feb 24 – Windsor; 

Jul 5 – Osborne.

Deaths were recorded on only two of the nights of bombing during the Blitz and on none during the V1 and V2 raids towards the end of the war.

The estate’s first civilian war deaths occurred on the night of 4 October 1940, when Hilda Humphries and Joyce Humphreys, both aged 23, were killed at 73 Hampton Road. We know little more about the sisters, as they did not appear to be living at the address on the night of the National Register, recorded just a year earlier in September 1939.

73 Hampton Road today - constructed after 4 October 1940 bomb

The bomb clearly destroyed the building, as the house there today is a replacement and of post-war construction. It stands out in contrast to the area's late Victorian dwellings.

The most devastating night of bombing for the estate was on 17 April the following year, when bombs destroyed the Methodist church on Woodgrange Road and hit the adjacent Claremont and Osborne Roads. A considerable bomb site was created, the uses to which it was put are considered below. It was the last night of the Blitz to hit the estate.

Woodgrange Methodist church after bomb damage of 17 April 1941

Five of the estate’s civilians were killed on the night of 17 April. Other people with home addresses outside of the estate may well have been killed, too.

The Register of Civilian Deaths records that Rosetta and Ruth Cohen of 3 Claremont Road, Lucy and William Bruce, next door at number 5, and Myer Cash, opposite at number 6, were all killed that night.

West Ham's Book of Civilian Dead - courtesy of Newham Archives

The 1939 National Register records that number 3 was occupied by six members of the Cohen family, all in the rag trade. Sisters Rose (aged 33) and Ruth (aged 17) were both single and a hand embroiderer and dress machinist, respectively.

Neither the Bruce family nor Myer Cash were shown to be living at their 1941 address at 5 and 6 Claremont on the night of the Register.

We have no details of which houses were bombed on each street during the bombing raids, but some of the hits were clearly serious, as indicated by some post war infill buildings on both Windsor and Claremont Roads.

Deaths were recorded on only two of the nights of bombing during the Blitz and on none during the V1 and V2 raids towards the end of the war.

A block of post WW2 bomb damage replacement flats on Claremont Road

Temporary Fire station on Claremont Road

Following the bombs of 17 April, a considerable bomb site was created. Originally, a plan was made to replace the damage with allotments, as part of the Dig for Victory campaign. This was later revised, and a temporary fire station was erected in preparation for any future raids on the immediate area (Fn 2). It was constructed between the bombed-out Methodist church and number 23 Claremont, which survives, as the first on Claremont Road.

Diagram showing layout and dimensions of temporary fire station on Claremont Road

The diagram above shows a fire engine room, a dormitory, an office/store, and a watch room, where phone calls about incidents were received and firefighters were ready to respond.

The buildings were temporary and likely constructed of corrugated iron.

Location of temporary fire station today - between the post war flats and 23 Claremont

The devastation created by the bombs at the western end of Claremont, Windsor and Osborne roads remained for almost a decade and a half, as a chilling reminder of the Blitz, as the photographs below, dated March 1955, show. 

The height of the trees that grew after the bombing, as shown in many of the photographs below, indicates just how long the site had lain derelict.

1955 Across Claremont, to Windsor

1955 From opposite 21 Windsor, looking west

1955 Looking across Claremont to Osborne

1955 Looking across Claremont

1955 Looking along Windsor

1955 Looking along Windsor

1955 Looking along Woodgrange, Osborne to the left

1955 Looking from junction of Osborne and Woodgrange

1955 Windsor Road - then bomb damage

The photographs were taken by West Ham’s planners as they prepared for post-war reconstruction of the area. The photographs are in Newham’s archives, for whom we are most grateful for the right to reproduce them.

Meanwhile, West Ham’s architects were working on plans to build on the site. The diagram below is their 1954 redevelopment plan.

West Ham architects' plans for bomb site along Woodgrange Road

Not all buildings are completed. What is now Donald Hunter House (Fn 3), originally Telephone House, was built in 1958.

Donald Hunter House, constructed 1958 on site of bomb damaged Windsor/Woodgrange Roads

The Methodist church was similarly at work to replace its bombed-out premises.

Modern Methodist church on Woodgrange Road, while still functioning

 

Footnotes

1.    1.  Bomb Census survey 1940-1945 - The National Archives

2.   2. E7 Now & Then: Claremont Road temporary WW2 fire station

3.   3. E7 Now & Then: Woodgrange Road developments

150th anniversary of Woodgrange estate

This July marks the 50th anniversary of Forest Gate's Woodgrange estate being granted Conservation Area status by the council, later ratified by the government. The designation was deliberately timed to coincide with the centenary of the start of construction on the estate.

We have already published several articles about this estate – see the appendix for details. This one marks the beginning of a series of new blogs on the estate's developments over the past century and a half. It explores the estate's origins, while situating its development within a wider historical and social context.We hope to mark the 150 years in other ways over the coming months, which we will showcase as they happen on this site.

 Origins

Glasgow developer Thomas Corbett purchased 110 acres of land on which the estate was built from the Gurney family for £44,000 in January 1877, (see Fn 1).

Archibald Cameron Corbett (1856 - 1933), son of Thomas and main developer of Woodgrange estate

Initially, 1,160 houses were constructed on the Woodgrange between 1877 and 1892, including all existing ones, as well as houses on Romford Road and shops on the eastern side of Woodgrange Road. The lengthy 15-year construction period is partially explained by a slump in the building trade in the mid-1880s, during which construction was halted. When it resumed towards the end of the decade the newer houses - on the eastern end of the estate - were built to more modest standards, reflected in cheaper prices - see below.

Although many suffered bomb damage during World War II (details of which will be covered in a future article in this series), we are not aware of any others having been demolished for reasons other than this subsequently.

Such was the success of the Woodgrange estate that Corbett’s heirs went on to develop six other large estates in east and south east London: Clements House, Ilford (93 acres, starting in 1893), Grange House, Ilford (74 acres, 1894), Downshall, Seven Kings (107 acres, 1898), Mayfield, Goodmayes (100 acres, 1899), St Germans, Hither Green (278 acres, 1896), and Eltham Park (334 acres, 1900).

Location, location, location

So, why did Corbett pick Forest Gate for his first significant estate development in London? The straightforward answer lies in two words: transport and opportunity.

The railway boom of the early and mid-19th century brought the Eastern Counties Railway to rural Forest Gate in 1839, when its population was only 5,000 (see Fn 2). At that time, the area was mainly occupied by market gardens, and there were only almshouses (see Fn 3) on the stretch of Woodgrange Road between the railway station and the then Princess Alice pub on Romford Road.

The railways brought Forest Gate within a 20-minute journey of the heart of the City of London, making it an ideal suburb for middle-class, clerical and managerial workers serving booming City institutions.

The opportunity for Corbett was the Gurney family's financial hardship (Fn 4), which owned much of the land in Forest Gate. This enabled him to buy the land, and Forest Gate suddenly became a thriving suburb. The area's population of 5,000 when development started grew to over 20,000 by the time the estate was completed.

Distinctive features of the estate

Unlike most housing developments in the Victorian era—well illustrated elsewhere in Forest Gate—Corbett insisted on the adoption of uniform design standards for every house on the estate. Therefore, although each house is unique, there are multiple variations in construction features—such as different bricks, some with verandahs and others without, some with single-storey extensions, others with two-storey extensions, and some with none, as well as the existence of bay windows and cellars or their absence.

1878 sales leaflet for Woodgrange estate properties

At a single stroke, the estate’s architectural design skilfully achieved both individuality for each house, within an overall coherent design setting.

When it came to selling the houses, Corbett severed the properties from the land on which they were built and disposed of them separately, thereby generating two sources of income from the estate. Middle-class individuals purchased the houses on 99-year leases, and the properties' freeholds were sold to institutional investors, who collected an annual ground rent from the leaseholders.

Larger houses at the western end of the estate would normally sell for around £530, with an annual ground rent of 8 guineas (£8.60). The smaller double-fronted houses at the eastern end of the roads would generally have sold for £330, on a 99-year lease, with a ground rent of £6.30.

Corbett was firm in his insistence that the estate's appearance be maintained to a high standard, thereby benefiting the freeholders by preserving the value of their investments. Leases required purchasers to decorate the interior and exterior of the houses at regular intervals and to keep the exteriors looking smart in specified ways. 

An estate office, located at the end of Hampton Road (now number 2), was established to ensure compliance with the standards.

Hampton Road, early 20th Century. Property on far right, Corbett's estate office.There to ensure conformity to appearance standards of houses on the estate maintained.

Trees were planted at regular intervals along the roads, and roundabouts were installed to enhance the estate's appearance, which was particularly important as it was then car-free. The teetotaller Corbetts included restrictive covenants in leases that forbade the sale of alcohol from any of the properties.

Affluent and aspiring

The fact that Corbett named all the houses on the estate (Windsor, Claremont, Osborne, Hampton, Richmond and Balmoral) after royal residences suggested he was appealing to aspiring would-be home owners.

A glance at the 1881 and 1891 censuses of Claremont Road (see Fn 5) – the first to enumerate the Woodgrange estate - gives an indication of how successful Corbett had been in identifying and satisfying his target market of residents. City workers and people in marine-related occupations (the estate is only three miles north of the then bustling London docks) predominated.

In 1881, 83% of houses on Claremont Road had at least one live-in domestic servant, usually a maid of all works, and 22% of houses employed two live-in servants, typically a nanny and a maid of all works. The servants were predominantly single women from East London or Essex, earning roughly £12-£16 per year, plus board and lodging (See Fn 6).

The construction of Essex’s then-largest synagogue on Earlham Grove, just a short walk away from the estate, in the early years of the twentieth century, made it an attractive location for the resettlement of successful Jewish immigrants and their children from the Whitechapel area and altered the demographics of the Woodgrange houses. (see Fn 7).

We are lucky to have a number of surviving Edwardian postcards of the estate (see Fn 8), which show what a fine state the area was in, maintained by careful leaseholders who adhered to the Corbett demands.

Edwardian Windsor Road

Edwardian Claremont Road

Edwardian Osborne Road

Changing demographic and occupant profiles

A combination of changes to the country’s workforce profile after World War I and the impact of the 99-year leases on the houses in the estate significantly altered the occupational makeup and appearance of it between the wars and subsequently.

The number of women in domestic service in Britain declined by almost one third between 1881 and 1921, largely accounted for by the death of over 700,000 men during the war, and the consequential “substitution” of women into formerly male employment. One result was a significant decline in the number of servants living in the estate’s houses.

By the late 1920s, the unexpired terms of the 99-year leases on the Woodgrange houses were dropping below 50 years, so the houses themselves were becoming less attractive as long-term homes and acquisitions. Houses on the estate were changing hands at ever-lower prices in the inter-war years due to their shortening leases.

As a result, the composition of households on the estate changed markedly. Over time, there were significantly fewer large families with live-in domestic servants. Many of the once-stylish owner-occupied middle-class houses began to be converted into Houses in Multiple Occupation (HMOs).

We will examine this in more detail in future articles, as we analyse the 20th-century census and National Register results for Claremont Road.

The consequences were that the overall standards of upkeep of many houses declined, as absentee owners chose not to improve properties with shorter lifespans, or simply sit back and collected rents, with no regard for the condition of the properties they let.

The Woodgrange estate suffered significant bomb damage (Fn 9), particularly at the western end of Windsor and Claremont Roads, which we will reflect on in a future article.

Post-World War 2 immigration into the UK, and Newham in particular, also altered the nationality of origin of many of the estate's residents, as the larger houses met the needs of larger families.

Conservation Area status

Post-World War II, prospective homeowners on the estate began to consolidate their leases by purchasing the freeholds, to extend their ownership duration. During the early 1950s, the now short leases of the houses were trading for very small sums, and prospective owners were acquiring the freeholds from the institutions that owned them, often paying twice the price of the lease for the privilege.

The owners of the newly united properties began restoring the estate to its “v, des res” status, investing in improving and maintaining their houses as owner-occupied dwellings rather than letting them fall into disrepair.

In an inspired act of heritage conservation and recognition, Newham Council designated approximately 70 acres and about 600 houses of the original estate as a Conservation Area in July 1976 to safeguard its significant architectural heritage. This was officially ratified by the government the following year to acknowledge and celebrate the estate's centenary.

Standards to be adhered to in properties on the Woodgrange estate, following adoption of Conservation Area status

The area was expanded in 1979 to include the original Corbett shops on Woodgrange Road (40-66). The designation has preserved the properties' external, road-facing appearance since then.

That status has led to a renewed interest in maintaining the estate's features and condition, as well as in attracting the type of families Corbett originally envisioned. Modern status symbols on the estate are no longer domestic servants, but many of the highly expensive cars that adorn the drives of some of the houses.

More recently, almost turning full circle, the construction of the very successful Elizabeth Line, calling at Forest Gate, together with almost boon town status of Stratford has increased the desirability of living on the estate.

As a consequence, house prices skyrocketed over the last forty years, reaching nearly 3,000 times their original value - treble the rate of general inflation over the period, according to the Bank of England!

 Footnotes:

1.   Woodgrange Farm and the Growth of Modern Forest Gate – here; Woodgrange Estate - the early years -  here; and Archibald Cameron Corbett – the man and his houses - here 

2.   Forest Gate's early transport history - here 

3.   Pawnbrokers of Forest Gate - here 10 July 

4.   Samuel Gurney (1786 - 1856) - Forest Gate's most influential resident - here 

5.   Upstairs, downstairs (Claremont Road in the 1881 census) - here ; Claremont Road 1891 census - here 

6.   Adverts for servants in Claremont Road - here 

7.   The rise and decline of Forest Gate's Jewish Community - here 

8.   Edwardian postcards of the Woodgrange estate - here 

9.   Claremont Road, temporary WW2 fire station - here